Climbing the Col de FontBelle

“Only one more kilometer,” the woman said (in French) as she went by me as we neared the top of the Col de FontBelle.

Hey, she was on an eBike.

This was the end of a 25-kilometer climb from Sisteron that wasn’t quite as difficult as I thought it would be, but was every bit as beautiful as I hoped it would be.

So … this was my first ride from Sisteron, a somewhat big town/city on the banks of the Durance River in Provence (the northern edge of Provence). Sisteron is known for the Rocher de la Baume (Rock of Baume) which are these incredible limestone cliffs on the south side of the river that have deep vertical ridges. It’s almost like they’re a series of flying buttresses holding up the mountain. 

This is the view of the Baume from my hotel room (and it’s not an expensive hotel) …

And then there’s Sisteron’s Citadel, which was built 800 or so years ago on and into the steep cliffs on the north side of the Durance. These are the two main reasons people come to Sisteron, along with cycling and hiking. And to ride motorcycles. I’ve noticed during my rides in France that wherever there are scenic mountain roads, there are lots of people on motorcycles. Going really fast. And making me nervous. A surprising number wear Harley Davidson jackets. 

Anyway …

The day’s ride was to the Col de FontBelle. I crossed the bridge over the Durance and immediately began climbing up the D 3. After a couple hundred meters, there was a sign that said FontBelle was 24.9 Ks away and the gradient for the next kilometer would be 6 percent. And so, I thought … this was how it would be the whole way. I didn’t get a photo of that sign (it was too steep to stop) but got one a K later …

After a few kilometers of climbing (mostly 5- and 6-percent gradients) the views were spectacular. I rode along and up the ridge of one mountain and could look to the right down to the valley between me and the mountain to the right. And all the other mountains all around me. I started at about 400 meters and knew FontBelle was at about 1,000 to 1,100 meters. I was prepared, mentally and physically for a long, long day of constant climbing.

As always, climbing rewards you with amazing views. Here are a couple …

There’s just something about climbing mountains on a bike that make me happy. 

I climbed for about 12 miles, to the little town of St-Geniez and then … 2 miles downhill. That was unexpected. And appreciated. Then the final climb to FontBelle. As I neared the sign with 2 Ks to go, I said to myself: “OK, make it a 6-percenter; I can handle that for 2 more Ks.”

I approached the sign and …

… 8.9 percent, the steepest segment of the entire climb. Oh well, just relax, slow down and keep turning those pedals. It was at this point the woman on the eBike passed me. I neared the final sign, dreading it would be a 9-percenter or even a 10-percenter and … 2.9 percent. Easy!

At the top, I chatted with the woman on the eBike, who lives near Lyon and spoke pretty good English. She and her husband (who was also at the top of the col) had never been to Sisteron until a month earlier when her son got married here. They loved the city and decided to come back with their bikes. She was recovering from knee surgery which was why she was riding an eBike.

I said goodbye and headed back the way I came and enjoyed all the amazing scenery in reverse (and panoramic) …

Overall, the ride was 34.44 miles with 3,802 feet of climbing.