A Rainy Day on the Dordogne Is Still A Pretty Great Day for a Ride

Uh-oh … it was raining when I woke up. After breakfast it was coming down even harder, and the same at 11AM and at noon. Damn, would this day be a washout? Without a ride? And, there’s nothing, nothing I tell you, to do in Beaulieu. Nothing. I have a book, In the Midst of Death, a detective novel by Lawrence Block (who I think I’ve heard of), written in 1976. I found it at the hotel in Figeac and tucked it away in my pannier. Just in case. Today was just in case.

Two chapters and one murder in, I fell asleep, and woke at 1PM. It was starting to clear up a bit and off I went, to do a loop NE along the Dordogne to Argentat and back, riding the road on either side of the scenic river. This section of the Dordogne, from Beaulieu to Argentat, is a bit off the main tourist path. There are no famous sites, castles, caves or towns, just great riding, It’s a somewhat famous bike route, and I needed to do it. My entire trip would be a failure without this ride!

It started raining as soon as I started riding (of course), but it wasn’t too bad. A steady drizzle rather than the earlier downpour. Here’s the start of the ride, and as you can see, cyclists rule this road! The D116…


This video is fairly typical of the 25 Ks to Argentat … and I think you can see it’s a little overcast, foggy and drizzly. But nice.

Here’s another scene from along this side (the south side) of the river. I think I like the ride on this side a little better. The valley between the road and river is wider and there’s a lot of farming and cows grazing.


The town of Argentat spans the Dordogne.


Rather than turn around and head back, I decided to ride a bit further (5 Ks) on this side of the river. I mean come on, how often do you get the chance to ride such a beautiful route? Even in the rain. Then it was back to Argentat and the D12 to Beaulieu. I immediately noticed this side was paved so much smoother than the other side, which made the ride easier and faster. Then again, what’s the hurry? The sun even began to come out a bit, and then some more. Look blue skies…


Here’s a video fairly typical of the ride along the D12…

OK, we’re almost back in Beaulieu and I’m almost dried out. Here’s one last photo, and my first cow photo. You can’t ride in France and not post cow pictures. They’re everywhere…


Tomorrow: On to Sarlat.

2 thoughts on “A Rainy Day on the Dordogne Is Still A Pretty Great Day for a Ride

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